N I G H T S T O PS Designer shops are nestled into the porticos of this medieval city The Fontana di Nettuno (fountain of Neptune) in Bologna My one goal was to eat a bolognese; in this quest I failed, deeming it too hot. But I did have a Bolognese pizza: that still counts, right? medieval city, and you cannot walk down a street without coming across at least one ancient chapel adorned with sculptures or paintings. After a few minutes you will reach the Piazza del Nettuno, named after the nude statue of Neptune in the centre and the adjoining Piazza Maggiore. There are lots of cafes here where you can sit and soak it all in, and perhaps have an aperitivo. If you are feeling particularly inquisitive, you can visit the art museum here, or take a tour of the Basilica de San Petronio. Do remember, however, this is a religious place, so no knees or shoulders should be exposed. Unfortunately for me, it was the tail end of the Cerberus heatwave, so I did not get the memo and was too stubborn to buy one of the paper cassocks on the door. But the option is there, should you need it. Adjoining this square is the most foodie street in the city, commonly found on Google images when you type in Bologna: Via Pescherie Vecchie. Tables litter the cobbled street, each piled high with drool-worthy morsels. Each shop window offers a tempting vision of parmesan wheels and hanging cured meats. This street feels like the real Italy. If you manage to reach the end without eating anything, you will surely fail when you reach the Mercato di Mezzo at the end of it. However, this street is quite narrow and can get very busy during peak times. Two things you must see when you are in this city are the two towers, named Garisenda (built 1109) and Asinelli (1119) after the families who built them. Nestled at a crossroads, both lean in opposite directions. Rumoured to be a competition between the two families to see who was the best, Asinelli was the clear winner at 70m (a whole 10m higher than its neighbour), although its height was increased even further at a later date. What perhaps makes this spot even more charming is the pasta restaurant overlooking it. Unfortunately, I could eat no more at this point, but its glass windows mean you can watch the chef making the pasta with the reflection of the Garisenda behind you. If you still find yourself with time on your hands, a trip to the University Quarter is worth doing. The University of Bologna is considered to be the oldest in the western world, having been created in 1088. Among its alumni is Copernicus, the father 48 THE LOG Win 24 pp47-49 Bologna.indd 48 01/12/2023 14:57