T R AV E L their lazy form of hunting simply waiting until an unsuspecting moth, grasshopper or lizard passed within reach, then grabbing the tasty snack. There are opportunities to get even closer to Costa Ricas slimy, spiny, sharp-toothed creatures in protected environments. La Paz Waterfall Gardens Nature Park has waterfall hikes and a sanctuary for jungle cats, frogs, birds, butterflies, hummingbirds and monkeys. Centro de Rescate Las Pumas has not only pumas, but also a jaguar and other felines, monkeys, parrots, turtles and sloths. The centre works to rehabilitate illegally kept pets, and injured and orphaned animals. Where possible, they are released back to the wild. Chasing waterfalls Many waterfall trails offer bathing opportunities, but watch out for warning signs about volcanically hot sulphuric water. One of the most spectacular is El Tigre waterfalls in Monteverde. This 8km loop has multiple cascades and you can include horse riding. Below: The chocolate tour at North Fields near Arenal. Below right: The Indigena Cafe on the Nicoya Peninsula serves great hot chocolate ESSENTIAL TRAVEL TIPS FOR COSTA RICA Book ahead online for the National Parks there are timed entry slots and a fee. Your best bet is to search SINAC (Sistema Nacional de reas de Conservacin) and the name of the park you wish to visit. Prepare for a queue of cars at the entry point to the most popular spots. Treat Google Maps and Waze with caution. The shortcuts they offer sometimes take a lot longer if they use poor-quality roads. Visit in the dry season, December to April, but still prepare to get soaked occasionally. Arenal is famous for its thermal springs. There is free access at El Choyin, although there is a fee for parking on the road alongside. If you prefer changing rooms and lockers, there are a couple of dozen commercial ventures to choose from. Titok hot springs provide a moderately priced, civilised, relaxing evening, soaking in the eight pools of increasing temperature, with lush vegetation and cocktails to help cool down. Coffee and chocolate break The (male) owner of Indigena Cafe on the Nicoya Peninsula had a theory that women experience chocolate differently from men and there does appear to be some scientific evidence that female brains respond differently to chocolate consumption, although the well-documented monthly cravings seem to be more about culture and marketing than biology. In a tranquil jungle setting, the Indigena serves the most delicious and best presented cup of hot chocolate you will ever experience at least to my heightened female senses. Whatever your gender, there are many opportunities to tour coffee or chocolate farms to learn about the process of growing and turning these delicious treats into necessary staples. They offer tasting and buying opportunities, but make sure you have a cool box at hand for the chocolate, should you be the sort of person who doesnt eat it all straight away. North Fields farm in La Fortuna offers an insight into both, plus cane-sugar processing, with lots of opportunities to taste. The coffee-tasting wheel, which was offered up to help our gustatory journey, includes enchanting flavours such as meaty-brothy, petroleum and rubber, as well as the better known hazelnut, malty and fruity notes. Our guide was keen to point out the ruinous processing of most supermarket coffee; the burnt and chemical sections were obviously reserved for these inferior products. I didnt even dare ask about decaf. Beach baby If you need to wind down after the excitement of the roads, you could do worse than the Nicoya Peninsula, which has more beach bars, seafood restaurants and surfing dudes than you can shake a stick at. You can easily find a private beach and there is potential for snorkelling seek out the rock pools at low tide or book a boat trip for the best underwater safari. Costa Rica is generally safe outside of the main cities, at least in terms of personal security. Most places take US dollars, speak English, and have good health and safety standards. You can even drink the tap water. There is an entry price to pretty much everything, which can mount up, but offset that against the good standard of accommodation at a very reasonable price. Just mind the tarantulas. 54 THE LOG Sum 24 pp52-54 Costa Rica.indd 54 13/06/2024 12:28