NIGHT STOPS: San Francisco A city of great food and inclines awaits By Captain Dave Wallsworth Illustration: Tom Woolley ne of my favourite things about San Francisco is the approach, which passes down the Pacific coast past Point Reyes then on towards the Golden Gate Bridge. You are treated to a wonderful view of the city before flying directly over the airport towards San Jos. If taken far enough south, it is possible to make out the distinctive circular building of Apple headquarters at Cupertino. There are some great walks both in the city, along the shoreline around the Embarcadero towards Fishermans Wharf (where you have to go and say hello to the sea lions on Pier 39!), and over the Golden Gate Bridge and on to Sausalito, a wonderfully quaint little place for food and drink with great views of the San Francisco skyline. If you dont want to walk back, there are frequent ferries back to the city. Alternatively, for the best views of the city, do it the other way around and take the ferry to Sausalito for breakfast then walk back. One of the best views of the Golden Gate Bridge is from Baker Beach. Take your camera, but be careful where you point it as part of the beach is reserved for nude sunbathing! The world famous Alcatraz Island was once a federal prison holding Americas most notorious criminals. It is only 15 minutes by ferry from the city, and is well worth a visit. However, try to book your tickets in advance because they are frequently sold out on the day. A bit steep San Francisco has some seriously steep roads and sidewalks. The history of its cable cars can be traced back to an incident in 1869, when Andrew Smith Hallidie watched a horse-drawn carriage slip backwards down a particularly steep, wet road. (There are other claims to the origin of the cable cars, so this story is open to dispute.) This resulted in the creation of the Clay Street Hill Railroad. Unlike many railways, the system uses a constantly moving cable beneath the tracks onto which the cable cars grip. The Cable Car Museum is at 1201 Mason Street for anyone interested in the full history of this iconic mode of transport. The history of its cable cars can be traced back to 1869, when Andrew Smith Hallidie watched a horse carriage slip backwards down a steep, wet road San Francisco is brilliant for cycling, both within the city, around the historic landmarks and, for the more adventurous, the surrounding areas. The ride up to Twin Peaks is hard work, but worth it. The top of the climb is at Christmas Tree Point, but there are ample opportunities to stop and enjoy the views over the city and the bay on the way up. For those who prefer a flatter cycle route, there is The Wiggle, a well-signposted mile around the city from Market Street to the edge of Golden Gate Park. This is a wonderful getaway from the hustle and bustle of the city, offering more than 1,000 acres of parkland and attractions such as the Japanese Tea Garden, the California Academy of Sciences, the de Young Museum and the Conservatory of Flowers. Exploring the area The Exploratorium on Pier 15 is fabulous. I took my kids when they were 11 and seven. It was a good job we arrived early because we spent the whole day there. Im still not sure if it was the adults or children who didnt want to leave. It has an enormous number of displays and exhibitions, but the best parts are the hands-on experiments and demonstrations. You will spend a whole day here if you have an inquisitive mind. San Franciscos Chinatown is the oldest of its kind in north America and the largest outside Asia, created as a result of the large number of immigrants during the 1800s. You probably wont find a better Chinese meal anywhere else in the USA. Other notable areas for superb food are Japantown, Little Italy and my favourite pizzeria, Uncle Vitos, which is towards the top of the wonderfully named Nob Hill, on the corner of Powell Street and Bush Street. Dont expect anywhere plush, but do expect the best pizza in San Francisco.